Description & elaboration
The Special Club Cramant 2017 cuvée from Pierre Gimonnet is a Blanc de blancs champagne sourced from a Grand Cru terroir on the Côte des Blancs. It is a champagne with notes of pear and brioche — with a chalky, mineral finish characteristic of Cramant. On the palate, the texture is velvety and the lively acidity makes it equally suited to aperitif or seafood-led dining. Crafted by Didier Gimonnet to the exacting standards of the Club Trésors de Champagne, this champagne is produced in limited quantities.
The Terroir
The vineyard is planted exclusively in the village classified as Grand Cru de Cramant. The subsoil is composed of outcropping Campanian chalk, a marine sediment dating from the Upper Cretaceous period. This bedrock absorbs rainfall and then releases the heat stored during the day back to the vine roots at night. The Chardonnay draws water from deep down thanks to a highly developed root system.
Several historic lieu-dits make up the final blend. The lieu-dit Buissons accounts for 65%: these old vines were planted in 1913. The lieu-dit Le Bateau contributes 21% of the harvest, from vines dating back to 1911 on an east-facing slope.
The parcels Gros Monts, Bauves and Bionnes make up the remaining 14%. The deep rooting of these seventy-year-old vines concentrates the matter in the berries through naturally limited yields. This wine is a Blanc de blancs, a category prized for its vivacity and saline character.
The vinification
Upon reception of the harvest, only the cuvée juices from fractional pressing are retained, for their high acidity and aromatic purity. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. A malolactic fermentation is then carried through to completion to soften the natural acidity and add texture.
Ageing on lees extends for a minimum of 48 months in the estate's cellars. This long contact with the yeasts develops the characteristic brioche and almond aromas of the cuvée.
Each bottle is then submitted for approval by a panel of professionals during a blind tasting, a mandatory step under the rules of the Club des Trésors to validate the technical quality of the wine. Disgorgement takes place in summer 2023.
The 2017 vintage
The year 2017 begins with a cold winter followed by a particularly mild spring across the entire appellation. This early rise in temperatures triggers an early budburst as soon as March. Spring frosts strike the region in April, though most slopes of the Côte des Blancs are spared.
Summer is marked by heavy rainfall in August, bringing an unprecedented pressure of grey rot on the bunches. Harvest spans from 5 to 7 September. In response to these challenging conditions, rigorous sorting is carried out both in the vineyard and at the press. The preserved musts display a natural potential alcohol of 11.5%, confirming grape maturity despite an atypical year.
Tasting notes
Appearance
The colour is a pale gold with silver highlights. Delicate bubbles form a fine, regular and persistent bead.
Nose
The nose opens on clean aromas of pear and crisp apple. Aeration reveals hints of fresh almond, white flowers and a delicate touch of frangipane, developed through the extended yeast contact during 48 months of ageing.
Palate
The attack is lively, with a chalky sensation characteristic of the Cramant terroir. The mid-palate offers generous body and a velvety texture that coats the mouth. The finish lingers on notes of citrus zest, underscoring the saline and mineral identity of the Grand Cru.
Food pairing suggestions
- Cheese gougères
- Cancale oysters
- Sea bass sashimi
- Baked turbot fillet
- Roasted lobster
- Braised veal sweetbreads
- Aged Chaource
- 24-month Parmesan
- Vieux Comté
The Plus de Bulles expert's opinion
Why I love it
The silky texture of this grand cru won me over, carried by a chalky tension and fresh dried fruit notes. I love its depth, drawn out by a saline finish of remarkable finesse.
My recommendation
Serve this bottle at 8–10 °C in a wine glass to fully appreciate its brilliance alongside a Saint-Jacques carpaccio.
Advice
How to store this champagne?
Plus de Bulles ships this bottle (75 cl) in reinforced packaging specifically designed for champagne transport. After receipt, we recommend storing the bottle on its side, away from light — ideally in a cellar, or at least in a cool, not too dry environment with a relatively stable temperature.
Ageing potential
The 2017 vintage of the Special Club Cramant cuvée from Pierre Gimonnet offers a beautiful drinking window, with an ageing potential of around ten years.
- Until 2028: the wine reveals primary aromas centred on citrus and acacia blossom.
- From 2029: with time, notes of dried fruit and roasted nuances enrich the bouquet.
- Around 2032: the wine evolves towards tertiary hints of honey and roasted dried fruits.
Serving suggestions
Serve this wine at 10 °C using an ice bucket with water rather than the refrigerator. Opt for large tulip glasses to encourage aromatic expression. This profile opens up fully after five minutes of aeration in the glass.
A note on this cuvée
The history of this family estate was built around Cuis, a village classified as Premier Cru. This commune also forms the backbone of the house's Brut Cuis Premier Cru, a reference wine focused on the immediate fruitiness of this geological area.
To explore a more precise style of vinification, the estate also offers the Pierre Gimonnet vintage non-dosé champagne, from a different harvest. These two wines illustrate a parcel-by-parcel reading of Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs.
