Description & elaboration
The Clos Saint Hilaire 2009 cuvée from Billecart-Salmon is a Blanc de Pinots Noirs champagne drawn from a single plot in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. It is a champagne of rare complexity, with notes of pastry, candied citrus and malted cereals. On the palate, its full, spherical texture makes it a natural companion for a gastronomic dinner. Delivered in its exclusive gift box, this confidential release of exactly 4,500 bottles showcases the expertise of a family-owned house.
The Terroir
The vineyard occupies a single one-hectare plot in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a Premier Cru terroir. Farmed under Monopole status, this walled enclosure faces the Marne valley. The old Pinot Noir vines, planted in 1964, are worked by draught horse, minimising compaction of the clay-limestone soils and preserving the microbial life of the earth.
The vine roots reach deep into the outcropping Campanian chalk, drawing from it minerality and tension. A full south-facing exposure ensures complete ripeness of the berries. The gently sloping topography facilitates natural drainage, while the advanced age of the vines naturally yields low harvests and high aromatic concentration.
The walls of this clos absorb daytime warmth and release a gentle heat to the vines at night. Cool nights preserve the natural acidity of the grapes, forging the aromatic contrast that is unique to this site.
The winemaking
The Clos Saint Hilaire 2009 is a Blanc de Pinots Noirs, meaning a champagne crafted exclusively from Pinot Noir. Cellar master Florent Nys oversees a barrel fermentation in small, seasoned oak casks. No new wood is used: the barrels, sourced from selected state forests, impart no unwanted toasty aromas.
Malolactic fermentation is intentionally blocked (the conversion of malic acid into lactic acid is halted) in order to preserve the natural tension of the particularly sunny 2009 harvest. The wine then rests on its fine lees for several weeks, developing roundness and complexity.
After the second fermentation, the wine begins an ageing on laths (bottle ageing on yeasts) lasting more than fourteen years. Manual riddling on pupitres — turning each bottle to collect the sediment — precedes disgorgement.
The 2009 vintage
The 2009 growing season recorded a notable rainfall deficit across the Marne. A hot summer concentrated the sugars in the bunches, and harvest began in the second week of September under clear skies. The health of the berries was impeccable; yields per hectare fell sharply, reinforcing the natural concentration of the juice.
The juice displayed a natural potential alcohol of 10.5 degrees, dispensing with any need for chaptalization. Cumulative sunshine levels surpassed the regional ten-year averages; the thick skins of the grapes developed a pronounced aromatic richness. The blocked malolactic fermentation balances this opulence with a persistent, nervy tension.
Tasting notes
Appearance
The colour reveals a deep golden yellow hue, burnished by fourteen years of slow maturation. The effervescence is graceful at the base of the flute, rising in fine, regular streams. The brilliant disc captures the light with intensity.
Nose
On the nose, the expression is intensely vinous. The long lees ageing develops complex aromas of malted cereals and freshly baked pastry. Hints of mandarin zest, blond tobacco and wafts of roasted notes complete this rich olfactory palette.
Palate
The attack on the palate reveals a spherical, full-bodied texture. Flavours of honeyed citrus zest assert themselves mid-palate, lifted by the minerality of the Campanian chalk. The chalky finish extends the tasting experience over several seconds.
Food pairing suggestions
- Cep mushroom tartlet
- Gougères with aged Comté
- Toast with truffle butter
- Wild turbot with coffee
- Roasted lake pike
- Lobster quenelle
- Vanilla millefeuille
- Chocolate orange sticks
- Aged sheep's tomme
The Plus de Bulles expert's opinion
Why I love it
I was captivated by the breadth of this cuvée and its notes of honeyed citrus. Its rich texture offers a depth and woody length that particularly moved me.
My recommendation
Serve it at 12–14 °C in a wine glass alongside turbot with coffee or roasted ceps. This champagne will continue to blossom until 2036.
Advice
How to store this champagne?
Plus de Bulles ships this bottle (75 cl) in reinforced cartons specially designed for transporting champagne. After receipt, we recommend storing the bottle horizontally, away from light — ideally in a cellar, or at the very least in a cool, not too dry environment with a relatively stable temperature. Keeping it in its original gift box provides additional protection.
Ageing potential
The Clos Saint Hilaire 2009 from Billecart-Salmon will continue to evolve favourably over the next decade, with a cellaring potential of approximately 10 to 15 years from disgorgement.
- Until 2028: the aromatic expression will lean towards candied zests, fruity and indulgent.
- From 2030: the profile will evolve towards notes of honey, beeswax and dried fruits, on a more expansive register.
- Around 2035: the structure will develop lingering nuances of gentle spice, of remarkable depth.
Serving suggestions
A cool but not ice-cold serving temperature is essential. This cuvée can be served at around 12°C. A fifteen-minute decant will soften the structure of this Blanc de Pinots Noirs. A tulip-shaped glass will effectively concentrate the aromas.
An anecdote about this cuvée
The name of this lieu-dit carries considerable historical significance: it pays homage to the village's patron saint, whose church literally adjoins this walled plot. Founded in 1818, the house of Billecart-Salmon has tended these lands for generations — the house archives have long made mention of this vineyard.
This heritage-driven approach is also reflected in the iconic elegance of the rosé cuvée. The use of draught horses, a method inherited directly from nineteenth-century practices, ensures regular and respectful care of the vineyard. This site produces a wine sought after by discerning enthusiasts the world over.
Also worth discovering: the mineral purity of this chardonnay.
