Description & elaboration
The Blanc de Noirs 2016 cuvée from Alfred Gratien is a champagne crafted exclusively from Pinot Noir, sourced from the terroirs of the Montagne de Reims. It is a champagne with notes of ripe red fruits — gentle spices — and brioche, of rare aromatic richness. On the palate, the texture is fleshy and velvety, ideal for pairing with a dinner of roasted meats. Shaped by four generations of the Jaeger family who have each served as Cellar Master, this confidential cuvée perpetuates a house savoir-faire stretching back 160 years.
Cellar Master Nicolas Jaeger favours vinifications historically carried out entirely in oak.
The Terroir
The grapes come from the villages of Bouzy and Ambonnay, two communes classified Grand Cru within the Champagne appellation. The plots are located on the Montagne de Reims. The vines are rooted in outcropping belemnite chalk, a sedimentary soil that imparts a complex vinous structure to the Pinot Noir.
The Campanian chalk absorbs heat during the day and releases it at night, promoting even ripening of the berries. Deep root systems protect the vines from summer drought. At an average altitude of 130 metres, the south-facing exposure ensures optimal grape maturity before harvest.
The winemaking
The must comes entirely from Pinot Noir, making an authentic Blanc de Pinots Noirs. The house uses traditional Champenois presses; careful fractioning isolates the finest cuvée juices. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in second-use oak barrels of 228 litres, sourced from Chablis estates and aged over four years. Nicolas Jaeger personally selects these casks in Burgundy.
These barrels nurture the wine without masking its aromatic expression: the wood allows a slow, gradual evolution. Nicolas Jaeger deliberately blocks malolactic fermentation: malic acid is thus preserved, maintaining the natural vivacity of the grape variety and balancing the richness brought by oak ageing. Bottling is followed by 84 months of ageing on lees. Riddling is carried out by hand on traditional wooden pupitres. Disgorgement (the expulsion of the lees deposit before final corking) is accompanied by a dosage measured at 8 g/L, placing it in the Brut category. The wine then rests for several months in the cellar before release.
The 2016 vintage
The year 2016 brought a highly contrasting climate to Champagne. An exceptionally mild winter triggered early budbreak in the vines. Spring brought significant frost episodes in April, followed by heavy rainfall through to June. The Montagne de Reims then benefited from a radical shift in conditions: disease pressure eased in mid-July, northerly winds dried the foliage, and August recorded scorching temperatures under intense sunshine.
Véraison began under this intense heat, concentrating natural sugars in the Pinot Noir berries. The clay-limestone soils of Ambonnay dried out, reducing bunch weight and tightening their profile. Vine health remained perfect through to the September harvest. The must displayed a remarkable sugar-to-acidity ratio, a sign of strong ageing potential.
Tasting notes
Appearance
The wine displays a pale golden hue, luminous in the glass. Copper highlights betray the presence of Pinot Noir. The effervescence is fine and discreet, driven by slow, steady streams of bubbles. The mousse ring persists on the sides of the glass.
Nose
The first nose opens with aromas of hazelnut, fresh white fruits and a subtle smoky undertone. Aeration reveals notes of marzipan and toasted brioche. The profile evolves towards hints of gentle spices; blond tobacco emerges after ten minutes. A chalky minerality underlines the finish of each breath.
Palate
The attack is broad and velvety, revealing a fleshy texture that coats the palate. The mid-palate displays a saline character, accompanied by poached pear and cinnamon. Candied orange enlivens the development. The finish lingers on chalky notes; subtle bitter nuances extend the aromatic persistence.
Food pairing suggestions
- Pata negra Bellota
- Blinis with smoked salmon
- Gougères au comté
- Monkfish tail with lardons
- Whole grilled lobster
- Veal fillet in a cream sauce
- Comté aged 24 months
- Tarte Tatin aux poires
- Aged ewe's milk tomme
The Plus de Bulles expert's opinion
Why I love it
This Blanc de Noirs won me over with the power and generosity of its texture on the palate. I was captivated by its aromatic palette, where ripe red fruits mingle with delicate spiced notes.
My recommendation
Serve at 12 °C in a wine glass, ideal alongside roasted squab or a veal fillet in a cream sauce.
Advice
How to store this champagne?
Plus de Bulles ships this bottle (75 cl) in reinforced packaging specially designed for champagne transport. After delivery, we recommend storing the bottle on its side, away from light — ideally in a cellar, or at least in a cool, not too dry place with a relatively stable temperature.
Ageing potential
The Blanc de Noirs 2016 from Alfred Gratien is ready to drink now, with an ageing potential of around fifteen years.
- Until 2026: the cuvée develops primary fruity notes and unfolds aromas of hazelnut.
- From 2027: ageing shifts the aromatic profile towards scents of cooked fruit and toasted brioche.
- Around 2031: the 2016 vintage reaches its tertiary peak and displays complex notes of gentle spices.
Serving suggestions
Best served at 12 °C in a tulip-shaped wine glass. A wide flute is also suitable. A brief aeration in the glass opens up the aromatic palette. Chill slowly in an ice bucket.
A note about this cuvée
The Maison Alfred Gratien was founded in 1864 in Épernay. It upholds highly traditional winemaking methods. The Jaeger family has overseen the crafting of these cuvées for four generations. This historic transmission defines the estate's style, which can also be found in the Brut Classique from the same house. The cellars extend for several kilometres beneath the chalk, excavated to a depth of 18 metres.
Ageing in small oak barrels is the hallmark of the house. The cellars house a collection of around 1,000 casks, maintained by an artisan cooperage. This method lends an assured oxidative patina to the blends, reminiscent of other great Champagne houses committed to oak — such as the Blanc de Noirs champagne in magnum from Domaine Eric Rodez.
