The Exception Blanche 2017 champagne by Mailly Grand Cru
The Exception Blanche 2017 cuvée from Mailly Grand Cru is a Blanc de Blancs crafted from 100% chardonnay, sourced from Grand Cru-classified plots. This champagne offers notes of fresh citrus, white flowers and chalky minerality, with exceptional aromatic precision. On the palate, its chiselled texture makes it a perfect aperitif companion. This numbered release, presented in its exclusive gift box, is a rare and confidential cuvée from Mailly Grand Cru.
Description & production
The Terroir
The grapes come exclusively from the House's own vineyards, planted in the village of Mailly-Champagne on the northern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. These north-facing hillsides slow the vegetative cycle of the vines, naturally preserving the acidity of the fruit. Only the finest classified plots within the village contribute to the blend.
The roots reach deep into the Campanian chalk, which absorbs daytime warmth and ensures continuous drainage while returning moisture through capillary action. It is this chalk that imparts the wine's characteristic mineral backbone.
Winemaking
Harvesting is carried out entirely by hand to preserve the integrity of each bunch before gentle pneumatic pressing. Cellar master Sébastien Dupas oversees the alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, followed by a full malolactic fermentation — the conversion of malic acid into lactic acid, which softens and rounds the wine's texture.
The wine then ages on the lees for sixty months in the cool depths of the chalk cellars. This extended lees contact develops the characteristic aromas of brioche, toasted bread and delicate pastry. A Brut dosage (the liqueur d'expédition added after disgorgement to balance acidity) completes the final blend. This cuvée sets itself apart from a Blanc de Pinots Noirs through its sharp, focused expression and lemon-driven tension.
The 2017 vintage
A spring frost in April struck parts of the Champagne vineyards, before a sweltering summer accelerated the vines' development. The harvest, which began in late August amid heavy rainfall, demanded rigorous sorting to eliminate any traces of grey rot.
The selected grapes retained perfect health and completed their ripening on the chalky soils of Mailly-Champagne. This contrasting vintage expresses itself in the glass through a pronounced citrus tension and a firm acid structure well suited to extended cellaring.
Tasting notes
Appearance
The colour reveals a golden yellow with green-gold highlights. The wine is animated by a fine, abundant effervescence. The bubbles form a persistent collar at the surface of the glass.
Nose
The first impression opens on white flower aromas, intertwined with notes of fresh citrus. With aeration, frank brioche notes emerge, reflecting the long sixty-month rest on the lees.
Palate
The attack is refreshingly vibrant. The palate unfolds a chiselled texture with chalky accents. The finish leaves a delicate, saline impression on the tongue.
Food pairing suggestions
- Oscietra caviar
- Wild oysters
- Cheese gougères
- Carpaccio Saint-Jacques
- Sea bream tartare
- Turbot with citrus sauce
- Truffle Brie
- Farmhouse Chaource
- Comté aged 24 months
The Plus de Bulles expert's opinion
Why I love it
This cuvée won me over with its chalky tension and chiselled profile. I love the brightness of its white peach and bergamot notes, carried by a delicate bubble through to a saline finish.
My recommendation
Serve at 8–10 °C in a wine glass rather than a flute to fully release its aromas, ideally alongside scallops.
Serving & storage advice
How to store this champagne?
Plus de Bulles ships this bottle (75 cl) in reinforced packaging specially designed for champagne transport. Upon receipt, we recommend storing the bottle on its side, away from light — ideally in a cellar or at the very least in a cool, not too dry environment with a relatively stable temperature.
Ageing potential
The Exception Blanche 2017 from Mailly Grand Cru is delicious to drink now, yet it has an estimated ageing potential of 10 to 15 years.
- Until 2027: the profile remains focused on freshness and citrus aromas.
- From 2028 onwards: with time, notes of pastry and brioche will begin to develop.
- Around 2032: the bottle will reveal tertiary aromas of honey and sweet almond.
Serving suggestions
The ideal serving temperature is 10 °C. A gradual chilling in an ice bucket preserves the aromatic balance. Avoid placing the bottle in the freezer. A tulip-shaped glass concentrates the floral notes. The presentation box protects the wine from external temperature variations until opening.
A note about this cuvée
The House presents this edition in a white bottle — a transparent vessel that allows you to admire the wine's colour before opening. Each copy in this numbered release carries a unique identifier, and an exclusive gift box completes the presentation while shielding the wine from light. To explore another expression of the Mailly-Champagne terroir, a vintage cuvée dominated by pinot noir illustrates the village's historic style.
Also worth discovering: another vintage of our grand cru chardonnay.
